Look at the label on your perfume. Strictly, marshmallow is also a plant: Althaea officinalis was used to cure sore throats. Illamasqua Freak Extrait de Parfum, Quince was used by the early Arab perfumers, by the Greeks and Romans: they steeped the fruit in oil, and made a perfume from its flowers that was called Melinum. (The seeds, meanwhile, can also be used in pot pourri.). Lanvin Jeanne Lanvin (Latin name: Citrus junos.) Yves Saint Laurent Paris Its a sensory experience: that candied breath of sugar. Kylie Minogue Darling When the leaves and twigs are distilled alongside the flowers, you have whats referred to as petitgrain sur le fleur. Donna Karan Donna Karan Which is definitely the only instance of a plant getting its name from an actual fragrance: its far more usually the other way round, ChantecailleFrangipane LArtisan Parfumeur Mimosa Pour Moi It produces an essential oil thats reminiscent of jasmine, though a little woodier, a touch spicier and more herbal. Numbers of musk deer dwindled, unsurprisingly, because it took 140 musk deer to produce a kilo of perfume ingredient. WebCalifornia Cosmetic Fragrance and Flavor Ingredient Right to Know Act of 2020 (SB 312) In October 2020, California Governor Gavin Newsom signed the California Cosmetic Its no surprise that freesias are favourite flowers, for many of us: these delicate, multi-coloured flowers smell so radiantly sweet and airy, with an almost nose-tingling freshness and a hint of citrus in there somewhere, too. The note is steam-distilled or solvent-extracted from the creamy flowers of the tall plant (Cananga odorata) it can be either a tree or a vine, growing to almost 20 metres. Ortigia Sicilia Orange Blossom The plant valiantly grows in mountain areas above 3,500 metres, in countries like India, Tibet, Bhutan and Sikkim. Guerlain Samsara Jo Malone London Pomegranate Noir. Guerlain Tonka Impriale ), Caron Tabac Blond ), The seeds left behind when the pretty yellow umbelliferous (umbrella-like) flowers have faded are used in steam-distillation of the fennel essential oil. Theres no cashmeran bush, or tree, or root, though: this is a synthetic fantasy ingredient, also sometimes referred to as blonde woods on perfume note pyramids. And funnily enough, the scents somewhere in between the two, too, Britney Spears Fantasy We all know bamboo. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Intoxicating, so intoxicating. The agarwood is a result of a reaction to a fungal attack, which turns this usually pale and light wood into a dark, resinous wood with a distinct fragrance a process that takes hundreds of years. Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl. Today, limes are farmed in many places (South Asia, Florida, Italy, Cuba and Mexico), and to capture a limes fragrant bounty a process of expression (squeezing) or distillation can be used. "Muguet is a wildflower growing in the undergrowth, and its scent cant be captured naturally despite its sublime power," says perfumer Domitille Michalon-Bertier. Parfums de Nicola Maharadjah Tom Ford White Musk Collection White Suede. Indeed, there are so many varieties and cross-overs (see below for a selection from Wikipedia's extensive page), that to date, no one author has successfully categorised them all. But long before that, myrrh was among the very first perfume ingredients used in prayer as well as perfumery itself: as far back as 3,700 years ago, priests and believers believed that the smoke of incense was the only thing which could cross the barrier between earth and heaven. Theres a wide variety of different names for this perfume, including: Patchouli Ethanone Isocyclemone E Ambralux Anthamber Although there are many manufacturing methods, only the IFF product is considered to be Iso E Super. Diluted, blended, civet morphs into something altogether lustily musky and inviting, adding warmth and radiance to floral scents especially, and working as a fixative. J-Lo Glo Gucci Guilty And its still a key ingredient in many sensual and iconic Ambre perfumes today, Agent Provocateur Eau Provocateur Its mostly used for its good-enough-to-eat sweetness in gourmand scents - but occasionally by perfumers for extra richness in fragrances from other families. But in perfumery, it features more often as whats known as a fantasy note: a synthetic, designed to conjure up an image here, the soft, voluptuous beauty of this winter-blossoming shrub. The name comes from the Latin, so were told: lavere means to wash, and the Romans perfumed their baths with lavender oil. So many sandalwood trees have been cut down in India, largely for production of perfume and incense often illegally harvested, because its such a valuable commodity - that its become endangered. Hugo Boss Boss Woman. (And when they do, the essence is prohibitively expensive. Well, recently, the third most abundant metal on earth has made an appearance mostly in mens perfumery, so far to add a cooling, metal edge, for instance in the Blood Concept fragrances, but also Creeds Acier Aluminium, which was inspired (so they put it) by the chain mail worn by medieval knights. And where would Guerlains Mitsouko be without the peach-skin warmth of C14? Off-screen, this flowering plant flourishes further afield than the European alps, where its a protected species: edelweiss is nowadays most commonly found in Javanese mountain regions. Calvin Klein Escape Synthetic sources of the molecule vanillin that characterizes vanilla have allowed us to add this delicious and additive note to fragrances across a broad variety of applications. Guerlain Myrre et Dlires Vetiveria zizanoides grows like crazy in marshy places and riverbanks in places that are drenched by high annual rainfall: countries like India, Brazil, Malaysia and the West Indies (Haitian vetiver is probably the most famous of its type). LOccitane en Provence Verbena Sorbet Marc Jacobs Daisy, A wonderful name for a glorious gum resin ingredient thats smokey and soft, luminous and sensual all at once. Now theres an entire harvest of blackberry-garlanded scents, too. Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile Were used to slooshing this onto our salads or into our frying pans but spritzing it onto our pulse-points? LOccitane de ProvenceCitrus Verbena Intense But they look fresh, and cheerful, and uplift the spirit and in fragrance marketing, thats can be a useful allusion. Balmain Ambre Gris Jimmy Choo Eau de Toilette A bushy shrub originally from Malaysia and India. (Nobodys quite sure where the fruit originated: maybe the southern Mediterranean, maybe China) Because of their luscious, hint-of-raspberry juiciness, blood oranges have become incredibly popular to eat and now theyre making their way into zesty perfumery, too, with a warm, tangy, citrussy, berry-like quality that adds a real sparkle factor to fragrance creations, complementing other citrus elements (mandarin, neroli, grapefruit), as well as rose and geranium, and spicy notes of clove and cinnamon. Creed White Flowers Thierry Mugler Angel Caron Nocturnes A perfect ingredient to blend with patchouli and spices. Yardley Royal Diamond. Intensely green green as spring itself the smell of hyacinth develops as the flower blooms. As the excellent fragrance blog Perfume Posse puts it, Musk speaks carnally in whispers or shouts And its in almost every scent we dab, spritz and splash onto our skins - because at the end of the day, most of us wear perfumes to feel more alluring, But musk does more than this. ", Organic compounds are present in many natural materialsthat can be synthesized artificially, such as the aliphatic aldehydes used to give sparkle to Chanel No. It then conjures up jasmine and orange blossom, and goes beautifully with green notes, and other floral ingredients. If youre a fan of gourmand perfumes (read more about them here), then maybe and if you love Thierry Muglers ground-breaking Angel, the most renowned gourmand scent of all, for sure. Gucci Guilty ", Frangipani is a fragrant tropical flower, also known as "West Indian Jasmine.". ), Many of us have picked a honeysuckle blossom and sucked the honey from the base but alas, honeysuckle gives up its dewy sweet nectar a lot more readily than its smell, and the yield of essential oil from these plants is really low. "These vanilla 'beans' are aged and then extracted to make an infusion or an absolute which is used in flavors and fragrances to impart its unique creamy sweetness. Its extracted by steam distillation of freshly-picked flowers, which must be a gorgeous task. Atelier Materi Cacao Porcelana Unlike rose or jasmine, which are more familiar, you may never have smelled a magnolia up close but this family of flowering trees is worth sniffing out, especially the Magnolia grandiflorum variety. Guerlain Shalimar Lavender is thought to have originated in the highlands of India, but today its happy in all sorts of sunny, stony, well-drained spots around the world. 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And at the same time, a wide range of synthetic sandalwood-like ingredients are now used in place of this at-risk wood, to give that smooth milkiness. And if youre ever lucky enough to find yourself standing in a grove of these trees, its an unbelievably delicious, sense-drenching experience. By Kilian Back to Black Versace Versace. Guerlain Shalimar Marshmallow isnt just a smell. Celine Dion Paris Night Lancme Trsor Hints of tobacco, too, or the whiff of burning leaves in winter. Soft, floaty, feminine: this so-pretty floral note has just a whisper of actual peachy fruitiness about it. Thats the zesty, lemony burst of citral, a natural aldehyde which is present in the oil of quite a few plants, including lemon myrtle, lemongrass, lemon tea tree, lemon verbena, lemons themselves, limes, as well as orange and petitgrain (the flower of the bitter orange). Calvin Klein Beauty A highly important ingredient in perfumes. A key ingredient in old and new Arabic perfumery, renowned as an element within high-quality incense in Arabic, Japanese and Indian cultures, oudh has now definitively crossed over to the west. Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini Giorgio Armani Idole dArmani Calendula blossoms, with their musky pungency, are used to produce essential oil through steam distillation; tagetes oil comes from the seeds of that plant though in terms of what they deliver to a perfume composition, theyre pretty interchangeable. (Fennel is of course familiar to most of us as a food but did you know its also used in creating absinthe, the no-longer-banned-but-it-still-makes-you-dance-on-tabletops French alcoholic drink? But its easy to see (or rather, smell) why white chocolate could add an almost edibly delicious creaminess to a fragrance. The leaves of this flowering plant which can grow to two or three metres are deliciously lemony and fresh when rubbed, and give a cleanness and uplifting freshness to scents. Chanel Coromandel Diptyque LEau Bella Bellissima Arabian Rose Halston Woman Amber Juliette Has A Gun Mad Madame Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatale Jo MaloneGrapefruit Its intriguing. Linalool is a fragrance ingredient found naturally in lavender, mint, and other plants. Bond No. Acqua di ParmaIris Nobile. Acqua di Stresa Acqua di Stresa Commonly, ambrette is used as a substitute for true musk. Jo Loves Pomelo Creed Neroli Sauvage Next time youre biting into a date that dried fruit, which conjures up images of oases, palm trees (and just possibly camels) have a sniff, first. The Italian term for neroli is zagara. Les Couvent de Minimes Eau de Mtines (Although it was also used by physicians to treat fever, headache and hysteria.) Max Mara Le Parfum A Far Eastern flower, a member of the lilac and olive family: known as Kwei Hwa or Mo Hsi, its been used there to fragrance tea and other drinks, as well as jam. Yves Saint LaurentParisienne, As you might imagine, a perfume ingredient extracted from one of our sturdiest trees adds a bit of heft to a scented creation: dry, woody, grounding. Sometimes bitter orange is referred to bigarade but many of us know it best as the too-sour-to-suck-on Seville orange, used for making marmalade. Yes, really: this salty, smoky breakfast food has been used in synthetic form as a novel (very novel) perfume ingredient in John Leydons Fargginay fragrance brand, in a specific bacn collection. A little dry, but with hints of pine in there, too. Down the years, those have been harnessed in rituals to induce a hallucinogenic state which allowed mere mortals to connect with the Gods (so legend has it). Later, the Arabic and Byzantine perfumers (including the famous Al-Kindi) perfected the art of capturing its aphrodisiac powers, and musks popularity spread along the silk and spice routes. Narciso Rodriguez for Her Eau de Parfum Jasmine and rose are the two foundation stones of perfumery. It was for a time the perfumers choice for replacing animal musks, although its gentler and not as sharp. Citral is lemons, while C11 gives a cleanness to fragrance (its naturally present in coriander leaf oil). (And read here about beeswax, which also makes its way into fragrances.) Just that it can. Fragonard Cerisier en Fleurs Guerlain Mitsouko The bitter orange tree is actually incredibly versatile, in perfumery: most neroli/orange blossom and petitgrain extracts come from this single tree, giving their soft/sweet/fresh qualities to countless delicious perfumes. (Gloves and perfumery are inextricably linked, which you can read about in our Perfume History section, here.) But in the hands of a gifted nose? Frederic Malle Carnal Flower Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely This yummiest of fruits originates from Central Mexico (guacamole-land!). Lancme O de Lancme "It's milky and sweet, without being sugary, like vanilla with a hint of caramel. Theyre also edible, should you ever find yourself in front of the actual tree (Robinia pseudoacacia). Fragrances with high levels of ambergris (natural or synthetic) can also smell salty. Penhaligons Artemisia But if youve ever received (or even grown) one of these bulbs (generally at Christmas), youll know what the name means: this trumpet-shaped flower really blooms when the foliage has died down. We eat grapes, we drink them and sometimes, we dab or spritz a synthesised version on our pulse points. (Although some gifted natural perfumers manage recreate the smell of honeysuckle through clever alchemy of other naturals) Depending on the other notes used, it can enhance a touch of aniseed, blend romantically with other white florals orange blossom and jasmine or add a fresh green note, GoutalParis Eau de Camille Miller Harris Le Pamplemousse Through a process of fractionation separating the different elements of an individual ingredient, and removing the potential sensitiser its possible to get an ingredient thats much closer to the oakmoss we know and loved. Chanel Chance Eau Tendre. Originally a native of China, peaches made their way to Europe after Alexander the Great conquered the Persians and brought back a botanical trophy, Prunus persica, then known as the Persian apple. The fruit is the size of an orange, with a yellow-green colour similar to a lemon. The very best stuff comes from the three or four top pairs of leaves, where the highest concentration of the fragrant oil is found. Now, as we know, its in countless foods, and most of us have a love-hate relationship with the stuff. Creed Vetiver (See also Artemisia). Today, mandarins grow in many countries: across Italy, Sicily, Spain, Florida, Argentina, Brazil and more. Technically, heliotropin the synthetic ingredient which recreates the heliotrope flower is a member of the aldehyde family of chemicals, and was first discovered in 1885. Not only are roses the most romantic of flowers to look at: theyre an absolute cornerstone of perfumery the most important flower of all, from the point of view of a nose: sometimes powdery, sometimes woody, musky, myrrh-y, clove-like, sometimes fruity, or just blowsily feminine but always, intensely romantic. Boadicea the Victorious Majestic The oil of this herb smells sweet-to-bittersweet, with nuances of amber, hay, and tobacco. Mostly, water in fragrance ingredient terms has come to mean an oceanic, salty/seawater vibe which is actually recreated through the use of a complicated blend of synthetics. Fragrances today are mostly a fusion of ingredients taken from nature or inspired by nature together with the synthetics (man-made ingredients) that are used to make them last longer, carry further, or stay true, when worn on the skin. And then theres orange itself (sometimes referred to as sweet orange, to distinguish it from the bitter, marmalade variety.). ), Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta Isabella RosselliniManifesto Issey Miyake would like us to think so: his iconic LEau dIssey was created to conjure up the purity and clarity of water. In perfumery, date is used as a fruitily sweet fantasy note especially in gourmand fragrances giving a drizzle of caramel, honeyed, buttery sweetness. Produced by small trees (Boswellia genus), it releases a gum-like resin that solidifies into droplets or tears. I see it as an addictive woody, licorice-like, and resinous," says perfumer Nelly Hachem-Ruiz. Wild chamomile, for instance, is herbal, sweet and fresh, more reminiscent of the tea we drink to calm ourselves or beckon sleep. Herms Eau dOrange Verte (Close your eyes, bite a blueberry open and inhale before popping one in your mouth, next time. But its aromatic nature really comes out when a distillation of the dried leaves and/or berries (in rum and water) is blended into perfumes (and aftershaves). The other type is leathery with woody smoky,undertones -not like birch tar, though, with its association of smokedsausages and campfires in October with wet wood. He was so taken with the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it into a fragrance and you can still smell that today, Boadicea the Victorious Complex Yes, really: ambergris is produced in the digestive system of sperm whales - to make it easier for the whale to digest shard objects (like squid beaks), so its thought. Herms Eau dOrange Verte But how does it smell? And we fully expect it to be used in quite a few more mouthwatering fragrances yet, Christina Aguilera Royal Desire Ivy was also carried by women who wanted to attract good fortune. Dior La Collection PriveFve Dlicieuse Floris Fleur (Not to be confused, incidentally, with the type of verbena grown in Britain, which has no value in perfumery. Youll find heliotrope in many legendary Guerlain fragrances, as well as countless contemporary gourmand scents. Lolita Lempicka Coral Flower You may also be familiar with it from body products and even fabric conditioners: Cashmeran clings, and doesnt rinse out well, leaving traces of its sensuality on the skin after showering, or your bedlinen after laundry day. Bulgari BLV Eau de Parfum II With such huge amounts of timber felled to extract teensy qualities of oil, its no wonder that Brazilian rosewood trees which are grown in the rainforests of Brazil, Mexico and Peru are now protected, under CITES (the convention which safeguards endangered flora and fauna). Guerlain Shalimar Burberry Weekend for Women (When you smell gin, youre basically smelling juniper, actually.) It makes your perfume do more than just smell good. But the ingredient perfumers weave, mostly into floral fragrances, is generally a synthetic replica. ', Caron Fleur de Rocaille I love working with clary sage for its clean, pastel, genderless versatility," says perfumer Mackenzie Reilly. Dior Dune This spice is used quite widely in perfumery as well as a wide range of foods and medicines, too, produced everywhere from South America to Malaysia, the Caribbean, Japan and Africa. Like quite a few ingredients, though, heliotrope/heliotropins use has been reduced and restricted lately by the International Fragrance Associations regulations (IFRA for short), and some iconic, heavy-on-the-heliotrope fragrances including LArtisan Parfumeurs glorious Jour de Fte have sadly been discontinued, as a result. Its use in perfumery goes back millennia: galbanum appears in the Old Testament as an ingredient in holy incense, and was an ingredient of the Egyptian perfume Metopian. Giorgio Armani Sensi But in the perfumers repertoire, its a pricy ($4,000+ a kilo), refined ingredient worth its weight in gold sometimes blended with synthetics that bring out its peachiness, however. (Carnation absolute is only produced in the south of France, though.). In rituals, sandalwood oil may be applied to the forehead, the temples, or rubbed between the eyebrows. Also known as storax, both names for benzoin. Often, only the lightest touch of orris is needed in fragrances but noses wouldnt be without it, for the world. ChloLove Eau Intense In perfumes, lavender is typically used either as a top or a middle note. The word bergamot derives from bergomotta in Italian and from Bergamum, a town in Italy. Crush the leaves of this frothily-flowered plant, and they smell fetid, rotting rank, basically. LOccitane en Provence Peony Amouage Memoir Woman Serge Lutens A La Nuit Short for rumbullion or rumbustion, slang words which meant tumult or uproar (which can be what happens after one rum cocktail too many, even now). The roots of this plant also known as horse-heal (and officially Inula helenium) can be distilled to produce an essential oil, with a minty, violet-like scent. Elie Saab Le Parfum Britney Spears Fantasy French Thyme), or Thymus vulgaris, from which most of the essential oil is steam-distilled. Miller Harris Jasmin Vert Thierry Mugler Angel When theyre perfectly ripe, youll know it: the scent is sweet and musky and the juice will almost certainly drip down your chin Calvin KleinEternity Moment Diptyque Oyedo "Aldehyde adds an effervescent and bubbly almost kinetic feeling to fragrance," says perfumer Adriana Medina. The best ingredients used to manufacture fragrance will ideally be natural, following a common mantra in menswear that natural is almost always best. Today's savvy perfumers, however, are far from the first to recognise thesheer sensual potential of this 'Queen of Flowers'. Orange blossom and neroli are a bit confusing, as ingredients. Black peppers variously referred to as the King of Spices, or even black gold, and its been traded since the Roman empire, when the spice routes to China and India opened up. Happily, its so concentrated that only a small amount need be used (although several very sophisticated scents do ramp up the tuberose, as a star ingredient). Guerlain Samsara Highly aromatic, merely brushing against the dark green leaves releases the potent scent, all varieties of the plant have some common characteristics - mostly perennial, mint simply adores to be near water, pools and in partial shade. Burberry Brit As you might suspect, theres a touch of damp forest floor to this material, too. Of all the fragrance ingredients out there, lavenders probably the most widely recognised (even if blindfolded) for its soothing, calming aromatic qualities. Miller Harris La Fume Arabie Pears themselves are a fruit-bowl staple today (though only really satisfying when truly in season, wed say). 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