Yes, you've heard right, Shell Cordovan the cream of the crop when it comes to luxurious quality shoe leather is now available. I have the same question as the guy above:-) Just so that I understand you correctly Simon: the Alden loafers you are wearing are a size 9 US/D width? Goodyear Welted using our ultraflex System on the comfortable ROD last using vegetable tanned leather insoles & full grain vegetable tanned calf leather lining from the French Tanneries Du Puy. But thats just brushing, not using polish or cream. Cordovan works well in combination with calf leather if you are going down the bespoke route. Color #8 is a deep brown/burgundy shade that has become synonymous with the color name "cordovan". I think that would make them just a tad smarter, while still being casual enough for jeans etc. It is intriguing to me. Goodyear Welted using our ultraflex System on the comfortable ROD last using vegetable tanned leather insoles & full grain vegetable tanned calf leather lining from the French Tanneries Du Puy. also since the colour is quite close to cordovan 8, can the shoe be used in situations where cordovan would have been used? 8 by any chance? Theres so much oil in there already, and you risk getting white lines in the creases. Dark Cognac Shell Cordovan . Sure! Anyways, the Alden Indy color 8 shell is often said to be super versatile. If unsure, please check with your local customs office before placing an order. I have never checked them out in the flesh myself.https://aldenmadison.com/collection/indy-boot-color-8-shell-cordovan-40508h/, I like the Indy boot, but more as something casual to just go with jeans. $95.00 Buy two straps and get the third free. Wouldnt you say that a black cordovan loafer is more casual than a black calf one, and perhaps comparable to a black suede one? I wear them with denim, with chinos, and at the most with flannels and knitwear. I wore them until the welt could not stand up to another repair. I myself have never seen a Barrie lasted loafer from them. It doesnt sound like you need much help from me Chris. They obviously look different, but wondering whether youd have them in the same category as not being obviously better than brown or black. Slow vegetable tanned in pits where each shell is slowly steeped in gentle vegetable liquors, then shells are hot stuffed then slicked onto glass frames to dry. Yes, always with a shirt or a long sleeve t-shirt underneath. Obviously I feel very comfortable on my toes if I wear that size but my heels slip as if Im wearing flip flops. Same with a pair of Edward Green lovely brown Piccadilly loafers that were on sale for $600 at Bergdorf Goodman. $ 123.99 USD. Handsewn. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. Thanks. Yes, Id say Alden is my preferred brand, though theres some discussion about pluses and minuses of them in the comments above. Choose. Two weeks ago I bought the same cordovan boots as you did at Gabucci store. Thread Colour. I cant put my finger on exactly what makes these distinctly less formal than the Aldens, but theyre also one of Vibergs most formal offerings. These were mostly from vintage shops and eBay. Out of stock. Im afraid I dont know any UK retailers of Aberdeen full strap loafers, either. I think those will look great. On the other hand, Alden makes some iconic casual shoes which many believe look best sockless and paired with shorts. I really enjoy the profile of your low-vamp Alden penny loafer, cordovan or not. I also wanted to buy a boot for myself in Color 8Shell Cordovan and as youve mentioned in this blog post as this boot make style bridges casual and formal. For me dark brown (chocolate) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the equally versatile color 8. Apologies if I might be slightly off-topic, but I couldnt find anywhere more relevant to ask you this question. Interesting article Simon. Your Aldens might look great with suits. The cultural association of shoes is fascinating to me. NW1) and knitwear though. Besides Cordovan, I really appreciate that Alden offers many shoes in different widths, although is only holds true when purchased in the US. Is cordovan not as smart as suede? But the sole is thicker too. That last is only more comfortable on most people because it is larger and so more forgiving. And I do like tassels, which is largely personal. Ive been wearing Alden cordovan shoes for thirty years now. (20% off), Sale Price USD 112.00 Ah, I see. The Hand Stitch Collection is finished with Lactae Hevea soles. Do you wear your loafers a half size larger than your jumper boots? If anything, Id say that Carmina is more cleanly made. My Alden Norwegian bluchers feel substantially heavier than, say, calf Dovers from Edward Green. As it isnt a skin, it doesnt have a top layer, and so can look almost shadowy, with colours floating beneath the surface. Dark Cognac Shell Cordovan Full Horween Shell Cordovan corner zip construction with two interior partitions. Thoughts on grained cordovan? Alden Cigar Shell Cordovan Wallet. The guy knows where to find everything all over the world. Simon, I have approx. The Harlestone sneaker is the original Hand Stitch style. I wouldnt say its that extreme, but it will depend a lot on the last shapes as well. General wisdom among Alden fans dictates that the Aberdeen fits true to (Brannock) size, and the Barrie is roomier all around, and can be worn a half size smaller. Your first pair of nice shoes was probably a Goodyear-welted dress shoe or boot. Each shell is oval in shape and made from a specific part of a horsehide. Thanks Quentin. Thanks for another wonderful article! Ah well, True. 379X Military Last. Or should I worry about getting Cordovan Loafers later? Ive seen some people in more casual cities pull off balmorals or derby boots like a Galway with quality denim, but Im a little young to pull off that kind of boot in general. Send me exclusive offers, unique gift ideas, and personalized tips for shopping and selling on Etsy. Fair enough, thanks! Hi Simon, So not really an Oxford equivalent in that sense. They were nice and Id always wanted a pair but like most things, the wanting was better than the having. Color. Dark brown ,snuff suede or cordovan? . Cordovan takes its name from the city of Crdoba, Spain, where the production of cordovan leather was first practiced by the Visigoths in the seventh century. On very large or very tall men, there might be issues. It is this texture in the creases that I think make it bridge formal and casual clothing. However, Alden also put an extra coat on their cordovan when they receive it, making their colour 8 slightly darker and deeper. I love loafers but I have a high instep and wide feet. I have very narrow heels and broader width at the front. Yes I think those Vass would have been good had they been the correct size. Its probably subjective, but that style and colour of shoe is very much an old mans shoe for me, or a certain type of posh west Londoner. Ive been retired for a few years. More than one cordwainer has told me that he didnt like working with it. Other asked about Shell Cordovan colors. Shell cordovan is an equine leather which comes from a fibrous flat muscle beneath the rump of the horse (shell). I guess my point is: I am happy to pay for calf or suede EG principally because the leathers they use are at the absolute top of the industry (as is their make for GYW shoes) and there is an -in my experience- noticeable difference in how the leather wears from day one and especially how it ages. Prioritising comfort/space. I totally agree that, with most non-designer shoes, you get what you pay for. This type of data sharing may be considered a sale of information under California privacy laws. Hello Simon, was hoping for your guidance on a pair of cordovan chukka boots. Hi Simon, do you think Aldens moc toe in Barrie last would be too casual and wide for mid-grey flannel trousers with 18.5cm leg openings? Edward Sexton double-breasted flannel suit: Style breakdown, Women and clothes: An interview with Emilie Hawtin. I find it difficult to decide between going a full size of half from the regular UK size. which affects the value point. Im wondering would something like that be useful with wearing with shorts and say black/navy polos? Hi Simon, The 9.5 feels very comfy from the start. Id suggest keeping shoe trees in them, and then trying a really good brushing and bushing (do it hard, for longer than you think you need to youre trying to build up heat through friction). They are well known for their attention to detail, beautiful hides and rich colors. Hi simon i believe the full strap pictured above is in the aberdeen last? $169.90 $169.90. As many Americans of my generation did (and still do) we wore tassel loafers with pin and chalk stripe suits in classic corporate settings. I had one pair of Alden loafers in #8 years ago when I lived in the States. At the very least, if you think that on leather for shoes, you should be a vegetarian. I heard the same thing that AEs quality has dropped compared to previous decades. Hi simon i know you own black cordovan shoes. Id stick with the bigger size and try a half insole or tongue pad. On the side, do you have any plans to review the armoury in house label shoes? Hi, Im wearing with Black or Blue Blackhorse Lane E8. Theyd also be handy in warmer weather, with the PS overshirt in dark brown, white tee and navy BHL chinos for example (you can clearly see me trying to justify them). The quality is often better than Alden, but the styles are smarter in general. This memory foam insole can be removed easily. Next time youre in NY it might be worth the 2 hour flight to Atlanta to visit Sid Mashburns flagship store here. Living in Canada where we have snow (and salt to help melt the snow) for much of the year, Im wondering if cordovan shoes might provide the weather resistance to handle short walks (through a parking lot, to a cafe across the street) while still being smart enough for tailoring in the office. Or did I choose the wrong colour? Thanks. Hi,Simon $200.00 sold out. Try to keep the rest a little smart too eg a white oxford and navy or mid-grey crewneck. Alden seem to have a large love-hate following online which has so far made me steer clear of them (even though I really like the darker shade of their col 8), but Ive been looking to purchase a pair of cordovan loafers a while now myself. Original Price USD 140.00 Maybe Alden uses JR soles as well but, even then, there does not appear to be any advantage to Alden. I went to my local shops selling alden loafers and the cordovan loafers look more purple/significantly less dark than any of the cordovan shoes in your pictures above A low profile silhouette, hand-finished construction, and world-class materials have been specifically tailored and tweaked, further elevating the Crown Northampton Sneaker range to the highest levels possible. Quite different to what they looked like when new, but even more beutiful. I dont currently own either but I have held, tried and examined examples from both and, at least from the quality signs that such examination can discover, I have to say that it seemed to me as though Carmina had the upper hand. This system is a combination of materials & technique making these shoes, the most comfortable Welted dress shoe in the market. I do love these shoes. Original Price USD 82.00 Id love to see something one day on leather alternatives for shoes. Both fir similarly, though, being quite roomy! You've already signed up for some newsletters, but you haven't confirmed your address. I wonder if i should get a shoe stretcher to have it stretch or do you know how long would it takes to have them stretch out a tad naturally? Very limited grounds for complaint generally, and even then its better to focus on all of the options that are readily available vs. whats not. Im not. Priceless. Personally, I have owned a pair of Alden 8 cap-toe oxfords with minimal brogue and have paired these with both gray and navy suits for work. Would they go to the informality of jeans or would they be too smart? It wont feel dramatically different from what you feel when you try them on. Shinki Hikaku Shell Cordovan leather comes from Kobe, Japan. Similar to Dark Cognac but with some red tones. Thank you! Captcha failed to load. Are the Alden versions sufficiently versatile to wear with flannel, cords, and cavalry twill, maybe with an appropriate sports coat? I dont find the boots heavy. Thanks for your reply, Simon. 156.32, 177.63 Hi simon are you saying that c8 is thr most versatile color given it can do both brown and black looks? I rarely wear them with a suit they are not especially sleek or fashionable. This time comsuming process takes about six months. Remove Ads. Acme Shoemaker Apron Toe Hi Simon, Where would you recommend trying and buying the full strap loafer from the UK? AE has a low-vamp, penny loafer very similar to Aldens but half the price. They are truly priceless, especially when in good condition. many thanks and keep up the excellent work with the blog. One of the reasons I stopped was that the format kind of didn't make sense, because actually it was rare I was selecting seasonal fabrics - as in ones that were only going to be around for one or two seasons. I bought second hand a pair of long wing bluchers that is probably older than me, the leather has developped a wonderful patina and is still going strong (Im actually wearing them today). Its personal and cultural, like many of these things, but I associate the bit loafer strongly with cheap Gucci ones in the 80s, and all associated knock-offs. I cannot remember polishing them for the last 5 years or so of their life- just a quick rub down. Ive also ordered Cordovan belts (other colours). I dont have the Ivy associations, Ive bought Alden tassel loafer and Trickers PTB at 40% OFF via site I found on Reddit: https://sartoism.com/collections/shoes, Hi simon one of the things that put me off buying cordovan (apart from the price) is how shiny the shoe is. Then begin with just a little bit of black polish, perhaps around the toe or heel. It would be hard to go wrong with a work boot with jeans Amit. Hi Simon, May I ask why did you prefer this make up to the more common Aberdeen last and blind eyelets? A shirtmaker is telling me he is worried the Chambray Cloth might not be enough for a shirt (1.1 x 2.5m). On the contrary, I found Carminas work to be much cleaner in the pairs Ive checked. I havent tried it David, no. Ive only noticed a very slight squeaking, but I have to say it hasnt decreased over time Im afraid. I know you mentioned in this post, you prefer the slimmer lasts. What does the deer bone (purportedly) add to this? Thanks in advance. Would you advise to work with black cream to darken it? Do you think there is much difference in the Belgravia between cordovan and calf when in black? Theres a couple of nice ones on the Barrie Im eyeing. Those partners may have their own information theyve collected about you. Much appreciated. Are they much higher? A boot not to be missed by any shell aficionado. I was looking at these pair of boots from Alden https://www.brogueshop.com/collections/shell-cordovan-1/products/alden-x-brogue-ruby-hill-boot-1 to wear with my https://thearmoury.com/products/the-armoury-by-nigel-cabourn-5-pocket-denim-jeans?variant=17728986677319 and my https://therealmccoys.com/collections/bottoms/products/001xx-washed Jeans. Its something I will look at correcting at some point, perhaps by stretching them a little. The reason is that while the waterproof nature might be the big attraction for you, it isnt for everyone or hasnt been the reason theyve been worn in the past. But I doubt Id want these any wider. One of the reasons I find Color 8 so unique is that I havent found any other red or green hued colour of loafer that is anywhere near as classic or versatile, Many thanks as ever, seems a shame theres not something in that niche a bit closer to home when you think about the additional resource that would have to go into shipping them over! I have a bit of a conundrum. I see, thanks, Simon. A small amount of cream every few weeks can help soften the leather, and feed it, but dont use too much or youll get white marks in the creases. Good to see that you mention Vass. Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw the recent checks post that featured them. Would love to see an article on types of shoe leathers (wallets, belts, etc.). Shell Cordovan. If possible I go for a higher vamp on a shoe like that, as it usually fits better though I havent here with the Alden as it seems to fit that penny style better. 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